You'll forget about timing checks until you have to remove pick up plate for some other repair. Thing is with EI once you set timing with strobe it really doesn't change at all. With the right combination of tools & some practice removing foot peg is very easy. If you have allen head bolts at bottom of primary cover, with cut off allen wrench you can often remove cover without removing the exhaust pipe. In the end of the day, I'd buy a later primary cover & use it all the time, or just get the cheapest junker from eBay or wherever & just use it to set timing. Do not get repro, they are junk sand cast & don't fit right. Even still cracked on is fine for special tool use. Most damage is from foot peg hitting cover. Make sure they have pointer & no damage in pointer area. Good ones with no damage will be $130-200. Even junkers are in demand for this reason. A beat up junker will run you $40-50 eBay. There are work arounds, but if you have the "tool" it makes life much simpler. Later timing covers are like a special tool for early bike owners. The basic alignment of rotor is only close enough to get motor started for strobe timing. Notice there is no provision for static timing as you'd have with points. These are the only ones I have personal experience with, but others are similar. Spin rotor until dot shows exactly centered in the "window drilling". Reinstall pickup plate, start motor & strobe time. Install rotor mark with the mark you just made & lock rotor in place. With Trispark you set pick up plate in place slots centered. It must not touch pin at all!! If it should touch you need to file end of taper on rotor such it no longer touches pin. When installing you set motor to 38b with rotor mark or TDC tool. Only then do I let go of AAU with other hand. Then still holding I install bolt & tighten it. Then tightly hold AAU into taper keeping it straight as possible so taper isn't skewed even slightly or it might stay skewed. I always feel peg as I install AAU so I know it's fully engaged. The AAU is often burred by poor alignment with peg during install. I verify the AAU taper is smooth, burr free. I verify bore of cam taper is smooth, burr free including peg. I lock them down well to set unit in taper before I remove bolt though. Hi Dave, I've not experienced the change in AAU wobble when removing installing AAU center bolt. Then if owner might suspect weak magnet, I could put on tester & see what output is. This way I could take a known good rotor & get a base line with 1ohm 100w resistor. It takes a lot of power to overcome belt friction & it takes a lot of power to generate electricity. Looking at online calculators I should more than enough power, but. That is under load of output, so I'll have to see what happens. I want to use some stepped V-belt pulleys to change speeds. What I don't know is how much power it will take with belt drag etc. My plan is to make a rotor/stator test rig. I have some spare 1/3 & 1/2 hp electric motors laying around. Finally they had to step it up & become 3 phase. Triumph was pretty good at matching the weakest, lightest, simplest, charging system they could and still have it just barely work. ![]() Turning lights on/off, watching the volts, then amps through zener change at different rpm & loads. I selected a drill bit which was the same size or with a smaller diameter then the shaft of the screws.Hi DavidP, Having that transformer is really nice!! I then marked the locating for the pilot holes (I actually ended up drilling with the machine heads still on) I just pushed the pegs all the way through, loosely fitting the nuts and washers at the front, and lined up the machine heads until I was happy they were straight. This is what you're left with once it's been removedįirst step was to provisionally fit all the machine heads for alignment So once I got to the last peg, I had to hold the Min-ETune unit to prevent it from falling off This is the only thing holding on the machine heads and the Min-ETune unit. I then carefully unfastened the nuts on the tuner pegs at the front of the headstock Strings off, along with the bridge and saddles They will screw all the way off so you have to be careful not to lose them The nuts which clamp the strings in place have to be unscrewed a little to remove the strings I prepared by unwinding the strings as per the user manual for the Min-ETune. (The Min-ETune tuners do not use screws). The only drilling required is for the pilot holes for the screws of the new machine heads. The headstock holes for the pegs of the machine heads are a standard Gibson size (roughly 10mm diameter) and will take standard Gibson machine heads. It was a simple process which required no reaming. Here are a few photos showing how I replaced the Min-ETune unit and machine heads on my 2014 SG Standard.
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